Myths and Legends in Cosmetics: What are the really effective substances?
Are the substances that we propose firming, anti-aging, etc… are they effective, or are they just found advertising?
A problem of recent years is that of the effective effectiveness of substances proposed as anti-wrinkle, firming, and so on. Over the years, we have witnessed the appearance on the market of ” revolutionary ” products, the active ingredients of which would have miraculous effects on the skin and hair.
Below are some famous examples of cosmetics, i.e., substances whose efficacy has never been demonstrated or whose ineffectiveness has been demonstrated, at least in the form in which they have been proposed in the standard cosmetic products.
Table of Contents
Collagen
It is a protein found in the deep layers of the skin, essential to guarantee turgidity and skin tone. The organism naturally produces it; its production is stimulated by a diet rich in vitamin C.
The collagen present in the creams has no chance to overcome the skin barrier; in reality, it only forms a superficial film that can limit moisture loss. As a result, some cosmetologists advise against creams, as it may have an occlusive effect, hindering perspiration and normal skin function; on the contrary, the fibrogenic power of collagen can be beneficial to make detergents less aggressive and as a component of hair conditioners.
Elastin
Like collagen, it is a protein found in the deep layers of the skin, essential to ensure skin elasticity. The organism naturally produces it; its production is stimulated by a diet rich in vitamin C. Also, elastin does not penetrate through the skin and has only a film-forming effect.
Hyaluronic acid
Together with collagen and elastin, it is synthesized by particular cells called fibroblasts. It can retain a lot of water and give the skin a turgidity. However, the one present in the creams cannot penetrate through the skin and cannot integrate the quantity of natural hyaluronic acid of the skin.
It can be used to maintain a certain degree of superficial moisture, but being hygroscopic (like glycerine), it works best when the air is sufficiently moist. Otherwise, it risks subtracting moisture from the skin.
Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid) and its provitamin (panthenol)
Essential for the health of the skin, it also regulates hair growth. It is found in many foods (yeast, wheat, eggs, oilseeds, legumes, and so on). For external use, it has a particular lenitive effect, but it does not affect the growth and strength of the hair at all; it is useless then. Add it for this purpose in shampoos and lotions.
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid)
Valuable antioxidant, essential to keep the body in good health, stimulates collagen and elastin synthesis. It must be taken daily with a diet rich in fruit and vegetables. Vitamin C added to the creams, being water-soluble, is absorbed by the skin in a minimum or no quantity. It is quickly altered when in contact with the air; it cannot reach the deeper layers of the skin where fibroblasts are found. The addition to the shampoos is even more useless because the contact time with the skin is minimal.
The discourse changes if in place of the ascorbic acid are used of its compounds: for example, the ascorbyl palmitate (substance with antioxidant action), which is much more stable and is liposoluble, which makes it more easily absorbed by the skin.